This column is dedicated to readers of this column who have sent me emails filled with frustration. Why doesn't my crabapple, eastern redbud, Kwasan cherry, dogwood, or serviceberry bloom? It is supposed to bloom here in the spring. What am I doing wrong?
Let's keep it simple. (We will blame you for your nonflowering tree later if we must.) You may have a tree which alternately blooms. This is totally natural for some dogwoods. They bloom extremely heavily one year and then a little or not at all the next. This is also true for fruit trees such as apple.
If the tree or shrub is too immature it will not bloom. Some wait ten years or so to bloom. You are probably familiar with a frustrated grower of wisteria (a vine). Lilacs sometimes take up to five years before flowering. Then you can't stop them! Simply take care of the tree or shrub during the growing season by making sure it receives adequate water. Keep your trees and shrubs well watered so they don't suffer stress. Try not to walk on any surface roots.
The flower buds may have been killed by low winter temperatures. Why not the leaf buds as well? Usually leaf buds are tightly closed and well protected. They are not affected as flower buds are by extremes in temperature. Otherwise some of our trees and shrubs would have no leaves either! Without leaves to make food such trees and shrubs would die.
Did you go outside in early spring to prune your flowering tree or shrub? Heavy pruning can encourage vegetative growth, that is branching. It won't help you get more flowers this year because most species formed their flower buds back in 2010! Please don't tell me that you cut back your forsythia and your lilacs back in March.
Is the tree or shrub planted in the right place? Most flowering trees or shrubs need about 8 hours of direct sun to fully bloom. Just because a label says shade tolerant doesn't mean the plant will thrive in shade. It may not die but it won't flower.
I know I am blaming you for your troubles here. But it must be said. Approximately 90% of garden problems (disease, failure to thrive) are cultural. Put another way .....it is your fault.
Is the tree or shrub competing for light, water, or nutrients? What is planted near it? How was it planted? Are the roots struggling because they were never spread out? They may be strangling each other as they compete for space, water, and nutrients. Whose fault was that?
You have a choice. Either be patient or move it! I am constantly amazed at how a new spot on a property can make all the difference for a plant. Just make sure that the tree or shrub is not damaged in the process. It is wise to dig a circle around the tree or shrub early in the year at a distance from the trunk equal to the drip line. This cuts off roots and stimulates the ones remaining. Later on carefully dig out the tree or shrub trying to maintain a rootball. This time plant it correctly in a suitable spot, at the right depth. Gently water. Don't let it dry out until reestablsihed. I have my fingers crossed for you.... that and some compost should do the trick. Good luck.